In the many years I was planning events professionally, clients hosting lavish buffets, or even rather simple ones, always came around to that one question – “Shouldn’t we serve some kind of vegetable that’s, you know, healthy?” Not creamy spinach dip, or cheesy stuffed mushrooms, but something that would presumably appease the guest who didn’t want, well, food. Caterers were full of suggestions, but it always seemed to come back to the old stand-by – the crudités tray.  Cut vegetables surrounding a bowl of dip.  Easy – and cheap.  Some caterers made these vegetable trays absolute works of art, with a variety of veg in beautiful colors with a choice of fresh-made dips.  But the truth was invariably that this tray of food was never empty at the end of the event.  And we always cleaned up lots of plates with a stray carrot or broccoli floret in a puddle of dip sitting next to the crumpled up napkin.  People go through the buffet line and put some vegetables on their plate to look virtuous, but never actually eat them. And despite many efforts, it was virtually impossible to convince a client that this stab at virtue was unnecessary.  After a long night on my feet at an event, I never got to have any leftovers of the good stuff, but was always welcome to as much raw veg as I could carry.

And I am guilty of this behavior myself.  When entertaining at home, I’d plan a spectacular spread of rich and delicious foods, then right at the end feel guilty for not offering anything “light”, so outcome the pre-cut vegetables and fat-free yogurt based dip.  I even once put the crudités tray on my beautiful buffet, but thought it ruined the look that I had so carefully constructed and put it back in the fridge.  I, in fact, think that the success of the “baby” carrot (really just whole carrots cut to look like miniature versions) was built on buffet guilt.

So this recipe was born of an overabundance of baby carrots, left over after a pitiful attempt to healthify a party spread.  Roasting the carrots and using carrot juice make this an intensely flavored soup.  I actually prefer canned 100% carrot juice or the kind that comes in tetrapack boxes from the juice aisle at the store to the refrigerated variety, which I find a bit sweet and expensive.  If you can’t find any of these, low-sodium vegetable stock will work. You can, of course, use an equal weight of peeled whole carrots cut into chunks.

Roasted Carrot and Cumin Soup

Scatter a little chopped fresh cilantro over the soup if you’d like to add a dash of color. This is particularly good accompanied by toast slathered with cream cheese.

1 (16 ounce) bag baby carrots

1 large shallot, cut into wedges

1 Tablespoon olive oil

2 ¾ cup 100% carrot juice

1 ½ teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt (or to taste)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Toss the carrots and the shallot in the olive oil and spread in one layer in a rimmed baking sheet.  Roast for 45 minutes to one hour, until the carrots are soft, wrinkled and browned in places and the shallot is lightly browned.

Transfer the carrots and shallots to a blender, and add half of the carrot juice, the spices and the salt.  Puree until smooth, scraping down the sides of the carafe if needed.  Add the remaining juice and puree until smooth and combined.

Pour the contents into a saucepan and heat over medium heat until warmed through.

Makes 2 large bowls or 4 small ones

So we’ve discussed that Black-Eyed Peas are good luck on New Year’s Day, representing any number of things. Greens are said to bring prosperity in the New Year, largely because they represent foldin’ money.  Many people choose to cook up a mess of collards or turnip greens, but I choose cabbage, for what represents a stack of good green money more than cabbage. And like the black-eyed peas, I include some instructions to help the recipe along.

This is a real trip South, cooking greens with smoked turkey necks, but that lovely smoky flavor makes a real difference.  And it can be a nice departure to cook the greens with turkey if you cook your black-eyed peas with ham.  I find the turkey necks in the smoked meat section of the store (did you know there was a smoked meat section?), where I also find ham hocks, other smoked turkey parts and salt pork and the like.  If you can’t find smoked turkey necks, a smoked ham hock will do.  And when buying the cabbage, look for a whole head with the darker green outer leaves still attached.  You may find these more readily at farmer’s or produce markets, or ask the produce person in the supermarket if they have a head that hasn’t been cleaned up for display. Don’t worry about blemishes, and just rinse off those outer leaves.  The dark green leaves really add color and texture to the finished product.  These greens can be left simmering on the stove for hours, you can even take them off the heat mid-way and then start up again if you get interrupted. If you’d like to pull the meat off the turkey necks and serve it with the cabbage you can, though there won’t be too much meat, or just discard them. If you use a ham hock, I’d definitely serve the meat.

Foldin’ Money Cabbage

I usually find the turkey necks already cut into pieces, so I use about 4 chunks.  Or cut up a whole neck.

1 smoked turkey neck, cut into chunks

½ cup sugar

2 Tablespoons Creole seasoning (I like Tony Chachere’s)

1 head green cabbage, with the dark outer leaves intact

Put four cups of water in a large Dutch oven (5- 7 quart) and add the turkey necks. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, cover and simmer for 30 minutes.  Add the sugar and Creole seasoning, stir, cover and simmer for an additional 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, rinse the cabbage well to clean those outer leaves.  Do not discard the dark green leaves.  Cut the cabbage in half and remove the core from each side.  Slice each cabbage half into thin strips, then cut the strips in half.  Make sure to get the dark outer leaves cut into strips, they tend to fall off when slicing.

Remove the turkey necks and set aside.  Drop in the cabbage strips, shuffling to separate them, into the simmering water.  Give the cabbage a quick stir, then cover the pot and simmer for 20 minutes.  Take off the cover and check that the cabbage is wilted down.  If not, cover again and simmer until it is.  When the cabbage is wilted, cook over medium-low heat with the cover half on the pan for an hour or so until the liquid is reduced to just a little potlikker in the pan.

Makes 4 nice bowls

I have always known that on New Year’s Day, you eat black-eyed peas for good luck in the coming year.  My parents weren’t necessarily the strictest adherents to this philosophy, but some how or another, black-eyed peas generally made an appearance on January 1.  We had a family friend who made Hoppin’ John, and sometimes we’d end up at their house, even just for a brief stop and spoon full of black-eyed peas.

Now, I never knew that eating good luck peas was a particularly Southern tradition.  But over the years, I have been informed that it is in fact very Southern and generally a practice relegated to our part of the world.  To me, black-eyed peas on New Year’s just is.

But in the interest of accuracy, I did a little research to discover more about the meaning behind this tradition.  What I found out was that eating black-eyed peas on New Year’s day is a Southern tradition said to bring good luck.  Beyond that, the ideas were so diverse, you just know that no one really has an answer.  The black-eyed peas are for luck, or prosperity, the peas represent coins and greens foldin’ money. The peas swell when cooking, which means an increase in your fortune. Eating humble food shows that you are a humble person worthy of good fortune. Peas bring peace.  The idea dates back to the Civil War, it dates back to the ancient Babylonians.  Whatever.  As I said, eating black-eyed peas on New Year’s day just is.  It is what you do.

Many Southerners prefer Hoppin’ John on New Year’s Day, which is a black-eyed pea and rice dish, but I really just prefer the peas alone. You can of course, serve these over some cooked rice.  Cooking like this is more about instructions than a true recipe, so I’ll lay out mine here.

Around New Year now, I find fresh black-eyed peas in the produce section, which is my choice.  The runner up would be frozen black-eyed peas. I cook the black-eyed peas the same way I do most field peas or shelly beans, with cured pork. Traditionally, I would say dishes like this were made with fatback, or streak o’lean (fatback with some lean to it), salt pork or ham hocks. I have turned to country ham slices, because they are readily available around here and give a nice, rich, salty flavor to the beans.  I look for some center cut slices and cut those up, but a few “biscuit” slices or a handful of pre-cut chunks will work. You can use bacon if that’s what you can lay your hands on.  If you are making a big mess o’ peas, you could go for a ham hock, but for this amount a ham hock is just too big.

I use half chicken broth for flavor, but cut it with water because the reduced liquid – the potlikker – is too salty with all broth.  You can use all homemade salt-free stock or all water if you prefer.  You can add more or less garlic as you like.  Add a nice amount of hot sauce at the beginning of the cooking to season up that potlikker, but don’t go overboard.  You will serve these with that sauce bottle on the table of course. Do not add any salt during before or cooking.  The ham will take care of that.

For the last few years, I have shared the luck by taking a little black-eyed pea making kit to family and friends, and as a hostess gift to a New Year’s Eve party.  To do this, pack the peas, ham and garlic in a resealable container or ziptop bag, and drop these into a gift bag with a box of chicken broth and a small bottle of hot sauce and the recipe. This is a great dish for New Year’s Day, because all you have to do is throw everything in a pot and let it simmer away.  Serve it with some greens (we’ll get to that later) and a slice of cornbread, and you are bound to have a good year.

Black-Eyed Peas for New Years

1 pound black-eyed peas

3 – 4 ounces country ham, cut into pieces

3 cloves garlic

2 cups low-sodium chicken broth

2 cups water

A few grinds of black pepper

1 really good dash of hot sauce, plus more to serve

Pick over the black-eyed peas to get rid of any green or bruised ones.  Put the peas, ham and garlic in a pot, add the broth and water, then stir in the hot sauce and pepper.  Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, cover the pot and simmer for about 45 minutes.  Remove the cover and cook a further hour, until the liquid is reduced and the peas are very tender.  Stir occasionally to prevent the peas from sticking to the pot, but if you stir too much, they’ll get mushy.

You can remove the ham and garlic before serving or leave them in. Serve warm.

Serves 6 as a side, 3 as the your whole meal

First off, let me say that this is not my recipe – I don’t think.  I read about this, or someone told me about it, I don’t know.  But it has stuck in my mind for years.  It’s one of those easy ones that you memorize without really meaning to, and then remember when you are wandering aimlessly through the grocery store or farmer’s market wondering what to buy.  This recipe is all about proportion – eight ounces each of four different root vegetables, an onion, some stock and herbs and you are done.  I have made this with all kinds of vegetables, even ones you can buy already cut and prepared.  Extra vegetables that didn’t make it onto another dish also work.  Weigh out your vegetables in the store, making sure to make allowance for peeling and trimming.  The weight of the vegetables are the key here, I have used more or just fudged the weight, but it just doesn’t work, ending up to thick and puree-like.   This really is best right after it’s made.  If you need to keep it and heat it up later, add a little extra stock to thin it out.  But too much extra stock dilutes the flavor.

I usually make this with thyme, but if I happen to have a few sprigs of marjoram around, I’ll throw that in instead.  I absolutely use bought stock unless I happen to have some homemade in the freezer.  Vegetable stock makes this a purely vegetarian meal, but chicken stock is fine if that’s what you have.  The amount here works out to one box and one can.  The color of this soup varies depending on the vegetables you use and the depth of the stock, varying from a creamy yellow to dark burnt umber.  I use my immersion stick blender to puree this, but if you let it cool a bit, then carefully put it in a blender in batches, that works beautifully.  Just remember not to fill the blender more than half full with each batch and hold the top down with a tea towel.

I love this with a dollop of tangy Greek yogurt or a swirl of sour cream.  A sprinkle of feta cheese can add a salty note, which is particularly nice if the soup has that sweet richness of parsnips or carrots.  Freshly toasted croutons, a sprinkle of chopped herbs – even toasted pine nuts can all add another dimension.  But make no mistake, this soup is great completely plain.

Oven Vegetable Soup

8 ounces each of four trimmed root vegetables, such as carrots, leeks, parsnips, celeriac, butternut squash, fennel or turnips

1 medium onion, peeled

48 ounces (6 cups) vegetable stock

1 bay leaf

3- 4 sprigs of thyme, marjoram or oregano

Fresh ground pepper and salt to taste

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.

Peel, trim and wash the vegetables as necessary.  Chop the vegetables into chunks of about equal size and place in an oven safe Dutch oven, about 5 quarts.  Add the onion, chopped into eighths.  Add the bay leaf and herbs, a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper.  Pour in the stock.

Bring the soup just to a boil on the stove, then cover and transfer to the oven.  Leave in the oven for three hours. The vegetables will become completely soft.

Remove the pot from the oven, uncover and leave to cool off slightly. Remove the bay leaf and the herb stems. Puree the soup with a stick blender or very carefully in a blender. You can add a small amount of additional stock if you like. Reheat the soup gently over low heat if needed.  Salt to taste.

Serves 6 small bowls or 4 big hearty ones

I always offer to bring a dish when people invite me over, and when they take the offer up, I sometimes get a little flustered trying to come up with something new and different.  This salad has been my staple this summer, when I grill out or when asked to bring something along.  So next time it’s your turn to bring a salad or a side dish to a barbecue (or just doing it for your own), here’s a fun, colorful salad with a difference – a sweet and tangy Cuban-style dressing.

You can absolutely use fresh corn, lightly cooked and cut from the cob, but it takes quite a few ears of corn to get this quantity.  I usually make this for a crowd, so I go easy on the jalepeno in the dressing, but feel free to bump it up a bit.

Cuban Corn and Black Bean Salad with Citrus Mojo Dressing

Salad:

3 (16 ounce) cans black beans, thoroughly rinsed and well drained

1 (12 ounce) bag frozen yellow corn kernels

1 (12 ounce) bag frozen white corn kernels

1 red bell pepper

1 orange bell pepper

½ small red onion

A nice handful of fresh cilantro

Mojo Dressing:

Juice of one small orange

Juice of one lemon

Juice of one lime

¼  of  a small red onion

¼ of a medium jalepeno, deseeded

3 cloves garlic

¼ cup cilantro leaves

1 Tablespoon honey

2 ½ Tablespoons cider vinegar

½ teaspoon cumin

¾ cup

Salt to taste

For the salad:

Lightly steam the corn kernels in the microwave, either in the bag they came in or in a microwave safe dish covered with plastic wrap, for about three minutes.  Drain well. In a large bowl, combine the well drained beans and corn.  Finely dice the peppers and the onion and add to the bowl.  Finely mince the cilantro and add to the bowl.  Gently stir or toss the salad, being careful not to mash the beans.

For the dressing:

Pour the juices (you should have about ½ cup) into the carafe of a blender.  Drop in the onion, the jalapeno, the garlic cloves and the cilantro leaves.  Add the honey, vinegar and cumin and blend until smooth.  With the blender running, slowly drizzle in the oil.  Taste and add salt.

Pour 1 cup of the dressing over the salad slowly, gently stirring to coat.  Taste and add more salt if needed.  Refrigerate the salad for several hours, stirring occasionally to distribute the dressing.  Stir again right before serving.

Serves 10 – 12

Note:  The dressing makes about 2 cups which is more than needed for the salad, but it is great on romaine lettuce, as a dressing for coleslaw or a marinade for chicken or fish.  It will keep covered for a week in the fridge.