Here we are again in that not-quite-winter, not-quite-spring time. It is cloudy and cold today, but two days ago it was lovely, bright and warm. The green shoots and leaves are starting to appear, but the grass is still brown and it’s not time to put the sweaters away yet. I am not really in the mood for stews and soups and braises, but the fresh new season produce isn’t quite in yet. So I look to transitional dishes, like this one, which seems to marry the richness and depth of winter with the lightness of spring. Polpette di ricotta are a traditionally dish of the Calabrian region of Italy. I often see them referred to as ricotta meatballs, but I think that’s a little confusing, as there is no meat involved at all. What you get here is fluffy dumplings made from ricotta swimming in a rich tomato sauce. It’s very simple and comforting, but a nice switch-up from more mainstream Italian dishes. The last time I served these, the response was hugely positive with requests for the recipe, so I knew I needed to share.
I include here a recipe for a simple tomato sauce that is surprisingly layered for something so simple. But you can use your favorite tomato sauce recipe, even something you froze in the summer made with fresh tomatoes. And once you have mastered the ricotta balls, you can also serve them floating in a bowl of delicious homemade chicken stock, perhaps simmered with a parmesan rind and some Italian herbs. I use a good tub of ricotta and drain it to make sure the excess liquid doesn’t keep me from forming balls. If your ricotta doesn’t drain any liquid, that’s ok – better safe than sorry. And if you make your own ricotta, definitely use that! I like this method of baking the formed ricotta balls before putting in the sauce, because they then definitely stay intact. I prefer these with just the balls floating in sauce, but I have read that some people serve this with pasta, like a meat-free spaghetti and meatballs. A nice bit of crusty bread to mop up extra sauce is a good thing. A good shower of grated parmesan cheese adds a lovely hit of flavor at the end, so don’t skip it. I like to make these the day I serve them, but you can form the balls ahead and keep the baking sheet in the fridge for several hours (add a few minutes to baking time). The sauce can also be cooked and refrigerated for a few hours, then gently reheated, perhaps with a splash of water, and the baked balls added.
Ingredients
- For the Sauce
3 Tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, finely diced
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 cup red wine
1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste
2 (28-ounce) cans crushed tomatoes
1 Tablespoon granulated sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
½ cup water
2 Tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil
- For the Ricotta Balls
1 (16-ounce) container whole milk ricotta
1/3 cup shredded parmesan cheese
½ cup breadcrumbs
2 eggs
1 teaspoon dried Italian seasoning
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
Parmesan cheese for topping
Directions
- For the Sauce
- Heat the olive oil in a large, deep braiser or skillet (I use a 3.5 quart enameled cast iron) over medium high heat. Add the shallots and sauté until they are soft and glassy, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook a further minute. Pour in the wine and cook until it is almost completely evaporated, stirring occasionally. Sprinkle in the red pepper and stir, then add the tomato paste. Stir until the paste is darker, brick red. Pour in the crushed tomatoes and stir, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Stir in the sugar, salt, pepper, nutmeg and water. Stir in the chopped basil. Bring to a vigorous bubble, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1 ½ hours until thickened and rich, stirring occasionally.
- For the Ricotta Balls
- Place the ricotta in a sieve over a bowl to drain for about 30 minutes. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and spray or brush it with olive oil.
- Put the drained ricotta in the bowl of a stand mixer with the parmesan, breadcrumbs, eggs, Italian seasoning, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Beat until completely combined. You want a mixture firm enough to shape into balls. If you need it firmer, add some more breadcrumbs, if its too stiff, add some of the drained liquid from the ricotta. (You can do this in a large bowl by hand with some elbow grease). Scoop the mixture into balls with a medium cookie scoop, or with a spoon. You want balls about the size of a golf ball, evenly sized. You should get about 18 balls. Place each ball on the baking sheet. Bake the balls for 20 minutes. You can do this up to an hour ahead of serving.
- When ready to serve, heat the sauce to bubbling, then place the balls in the sauce in one layer. Cover the pan and cook until the balls are warmed through. Sprinkle with freshly grated parmesan cheese and serve.
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